The yurt — a home you can put up in an hour
The yurt, in Kyrgyz "boz üy" ("grey house"), is a lattice frame covered with felt. At the top is a wooden ring, the "tündük", through which smoke escapes and you can see the sky. Its image sits at the centre of the Kyrgyz flag.
The yurt has its own rules. The place of honour opposite the entrance, the "tör", is given to elders and guests. Never step on the threshold. Being invited inside is a sign of great respect.
The horse — a best friend
They say a Kyrgyz child learns to ride before learning to walk. The horse is transport, wealth and kumis all at once.
On holidays there are horseback games:
- Kok-boru — a team contest between riders over a goat carcass.
- At-chabysh — a long-distance horse race.
- Kyz-kuumai — a young man on horseback chases a girl.
If you see a poster for one — be sure to go.
"Manas" — an epic half a million lines long
The epic of the hero Manas is one of the longest in the world. It wasn't read but performed from memory by storytellers called manaschi. You can hear how the epic sounds, and see the komuz — a three-stringed folk instrument — at concerts in Bishkek.
Hospitality
In Kyrgyz culture a guest is sacred. If a shepherd on the jailoo invites you for tea, it isn't a mere formality. Refusing food entirely is impolite: try at least a little.
A little etiquette for visitors
- Bread is sacred. Flatbread is never placed upside down or thrown away. Don't leave bread on the trail.
- Elders come first. They are served tea first and offered a seat.
- Only photograph people with permission, especially older people and women.
- Trees and stones with ribbons tied to them are mazars — sacred places. Don't touch the ribbons or make noise nearby.
- Hiking clothes are fine in the mountains, but in villages and when visiting someone's home it's better to cover your shoulders and knees.
Five words in Kyrgyz
Almost everyone in Bishkek speaks Russian, but a few local words will melt any heart.
- Salamatsyzby — hello.
- Rakhmat — thank you.
- Kosh keliňiz — welcome.
- Jakshy — good.
- Kosh boluňuz — goodbye.